In my previous blog, I hinted at the content of this picture. The Himalayan Bike Bar in Manali, led by Naveen Barongpa a former Ladakh cyclist guide—proved invaluable. It was Naveen who recommended the keylong route for the Manali to Leh circuit, and having traversed it myself, I confidently affirm that this route stands as the ultimate plan for anyone contemplating the Manali-Leh circuit. Trust me, I speak from firsthand experience.
Day 14:
Setting off from the hotel in Manali, I gear up for the challenging 40km uphill ride to Sissu in the Lahaul district of Himachal Pradesh. Moved the cycle to the ground floor, packed all the bags, and started my journey.
The day’s highlight? The much-anticipated crossing of the 9km Atal tunnel. However, as I got closer to the tunnel the the roads became steeper, Nonetheless, frequent breaks helped me regain strength and the spirit to push myself again.
After almost 3 long hours of extreme climb, I see the entrance, made it to the world’s longest single-tube tunnel, spanning 9 km, in a few more minutes my dream was finally turning into reality.
As I approached the barricades just a few meters from the tunnel, the cops signaled me to stop, I couldn’t help feeling a bit disheartened about the interruption but it turned out, they did so just to caution me to cycle carefully and stay close to the pathway.
From Darkness to Delight:
I gear up with a backlight and reflector, for safety’s sake! Entering the tunnel it was dark, cold, and scary but eventually thrilling, I could finally see my thirst for adventure being met, it was a dream come true.
As I emerged from the tunnel, it felt like stepping into a whole new world. Towering sand mountains surrounded me, and a gentle river breeze welcomed me to this unfamiliar terrain.
Before I set off for today’s destination, I had a delightful encounter with an enthusiastic biker gang. We had a great chat, and their interest in taking pictures with me filled me with a sense of pride and camaraderie.
Chai Break Leading to Snow Point’s Unexpected Appeal:
Feeling the chill in the air, I layered up for extra warmth. Cycling along the tranquil Chenab River, surrounded by majestic sandy mountains, each pedal stroke felt like a blessed moment, embracing the serene beauty of the landscape.
After reaching a small café, I decided to take a break and grab something warm. The café worker, despite the not-so-great chai, recommended a great place, Snow Point suitable for camping.
Just a few kilometers from the café, I cycled for about 1 km downhill alongside NH3, but the effort was worth it. Despite the absence of snow, Snow Point was known for its stunning waterfalls and Helipad amidst mesmerizing mountains.
Without hesitation, I decided to camp here for the night. However, I realized I’d left my cycling helmet and goggles at the café, a frustrating habit of mine, forgetting things.
Cycling all the way back, I tackled the steep uphill I’d just descended, then cycled another kilometer to the café. Luckily, the worker recognized me and, with a smile, handed over my things.
Feasting & Finding:
Returning to Snow Point, one end boasted a bustling helipad with tourists taking photos and several small food counters offering momo, soup, and chowmein, which didn’t pique my interest.
As I explored the surroundings, I noticed a campsite at the far end, but it required a fee. Preferring to use my own camping gear, I turned my attention to satisfying my hunger.
At the entrance of Snow Point, I came across a charming cafe named Atal Cafe, named after the tunnel. Eager to celebrate my first day close to the Himalayas, I treated myself to veg fried rice paired with yogurt a unique craving I’d been longing to indulge. With a satisfied stomach, I embarked on the quest for the perfect camping spot.
Turbulent Nights: A Tent, Echoing Winds, and a Barking Buddy:
Making my tummy happy, I went ahead and started searching for the right spot to camp, this would be my first time camping close to the Himalayas, but realized it was not going to be easy, with the kind of turbulent winds I see here, I understand night’s going to be tough.
The place was absolutely stunning, offering a captivating views Cascading waterfalls, the Milky Way amidst these magnificent mountains.
I had my reservations whether my tent could withstand these challenging conditions, but I was determined to test it, considering it would be my home for the next few months.
The eerie, echoing strong winds rattled my tent, but I was prepared for the worst. Throughout the night, the relentless gusts persistently tested me and my abode, accompanied by the unwavering bark of a dog.
This encounter served as a profound lesson: truly appreciating nature’s unparalleled beauty demands unwavering courage.