Beginning of Adventure:
As I opened my eyes found myself wrapped in layers inside this huge strong tent, only then it hit me I’m just a few km away from Baralacha la pass (4,850 m or 15,910 ft).This would be my first peak to cycle, on my way to Leh.
Todays destination is Sarchu 54 KM from Zing Zing Bar , the place where I’m right now. I know the road ahead involves cycling through grueling steeps and harsh weathers but I’ve been waiting for this day for a long time now.
Reason Behind Tissue:
Awake from my thoughts, nature’s call couldn’t wait. Rushing outside, I found a massive well and nearby, a modest 3*3 washroom. It was basic, a small tinted door with a makeshift latch shoved into coiled binding wire from within and supposed to serve as a simple indicator for occupancy.
Despite its simplicity, it got the job done for the morning routines.Well, it turns out I’ve uncovered the secret behind why folks in the West prefer tissues.
Attempting to brush my teeth this morning with a touch of water transformed my mouth into a temporary Ice cave , I couldn’t feel them for a while. Not any different when it comes to other morning rituals if you know what I mean.
Running behind schedule, I couldn’t cook, so I opted for a hot alu paratha and chai for breakfast. It was a delightful meal. The total bill for everything, including food and lodging, came to 480 bucks, which I found quite reasonable.I thanked and left a tip for Chotu, which put a smile on his innocent yet matured soul.
Consistency and Focus Pays off on Mountains:
The mountains were incredibly steep, but I’ve learned a thing or two about their game by now. It boiled down to consistency, maintaining a steady pace, controlling my breath, and avoiding extreme exertion.
My strategy became simple: push until I hit a milestone, lets say 10 kilometers, then take a 5-minute breather before continuing on to the next 10 kilometers.
It might sound intimidating, but let me tell you, this focused moment while trekking through the Himalayas became almost spiritual. Every breath, every heartbeat felt like a transcendental experience.
Inspiring Couple From Germany:
In that meditative state, every sound around me became vividly present. And just a few kilometers away to Baralacha La pass, I encountered a couple cycling towards me.
Meeting this spirited couple, both around sixty, who had journeyed from Germany solely to cycle the Srinagar to Leh Circuit, their determination to explore India made me swell with pride as an Indian
. In their presence, I was already feeling inspired to pursue my adventures, immersed in swapping tales about our bikes and their remarkable journey, time slipped away until it was time to say our goodbyes.
Here they are, exploring at their age, while many of our younger generation seem trapped in their digital bubbles, following a herd mentality. It was a powerful reminder of the adventures waiting beyond our screens.
It’s crystal clear that many great personalities once explored the world, including figures like Mahatma Gandhi, Ratan Tata, and Narayana Murthy. Yet, we seem to overlook this and often fall into the trap of following the herd in our daily lives.
Maybe it’s something ingrained in our education system.I can’t help but notice college billboards boasting about 100% placements. Until that changes, the future of India might not truly transform.
There’s a need to teach how to think creatively, to innovate, instead of merely programming students with decade old books that lack relevance in the current scenario anymore.
Finally Baralacha La! :
This was my first taste of conquering a peak, and despite the initial confusion, it felt strangely empowering.
With thoughts swirling in my mind, I saw I was amid the thunderous roars of trucks and thumps of bullet, my offline maps seemed as lost as me. I pressed the levers at a nearby truck, to inquire the distance to Baralacha La.
I asked the truck driver, “Baralacha La kitna door hai?” With a smirk, he pointed towards a concrete pillar displaying the altitude—Baralacha La (4,850 meters or 15,910 feet).Ah, there I was! Feeling a tad foolish, yet oddly satisfied.
Downhill Adventure:
After chatting with fellow tourists, I learned that it was all downhill from that point onward. Just apply the brakes and glide down the hills, sounds like a blast, right? That’s what I thought too. But reality turned out quite different from my expectations.
As advised, I started descending, expecting a smooth ride where I’d gently apply the brakes while navigating the loops and mountain edges. Instead, I found myself squeezing the brake levers so hard that sparks flew when the brake pads met the disc.
The icy wind hitting my face felt refreshing initially, but it wasn’t exactly pleasant for an extended period. Nonetheless, I managed my first extremely steep downhill stretch satisfactorily. Ahead of me lay a vast desert terrain stretching all the way to Sarchu, just 15 kilometers ahead.
Ruthless Desert:
I made a firm decision not to stop until I reached Sarchu, even though I passed a few tempting dhabas along the way. Pedaling steadily, I suddenly realized I’d taken a wrong turn when I hit a dead end, a construction site blocking my path.
Below, I spotted the road I was supposed to be on. Now, it all clicked why that truck driver was frantically shouting at me when I took that turn! I see no living thing around , it was scarily silent and a thought struck me: if something went wrong here, no one would even know.
Out of nowhere, I felt this overwhelming weakness, realizing I didn’t have enough fuel left to reach my destination. All I’d had was an alu paratha from the morning; I regret not stopping at that dhaba earlier.
Too tired to unpack my stuff, I sat down taking support of a rock to gain some strength. Eventually, I managed to reach for my bag and found a pack of mixed dry fruits: almonds, raisins, and dates. Too hungry to hold back, I wolfed them down, especially loving the sweet dates.
Sweetness from the dates seemed to soothe my soul, unlike any I’d experienced before, bringing a profound sense of contentment.I felt an unexpected peace from within, may be a sense of gratitude for having food right at that moment. Now I know what it feels like to go hungry.
Dehydration in Isolation:
Continuing my journey, I found myself facing a challenging 10-kilometer stretch ahead with both my water bottles empty. Thirst hit me hard, making those remaining kilometers feel like an impossible feat. Was it fear or the dire need for water that halted my progress?
In the midst of my despair, I spotted a large car carrying a group of youngsters capturing the vastness of the desert, finding beauty in its cruelty. Maybe that’s what they meant by beauty being in the eyes of the beholder.
Relieved at the sight of other people, I hurried towards them, desperately in need of water. They were kind enough to offer me two bottles, and with no other options available, I accepted their generous gesture gratefully.
Signs of Life:
After a while, signs of civilization started to appear,a few camping sites, bridges crossing water streams, and eventually, a massive military camp. I could sense I was nearing my destination.
As I gazed around, I noticed someone jogging towards me, and our eyes met, prompting both of us to halt. He was from Kerala, often called “God’s own Country.” A dedicated runner, he was determined to set a Guinness World Record by completing the Leh to Manali run in record time.
After a brief chat, he suggested a place for me to stay, taking my new friend’s advice, I made my way to the checkpoint, where lie the dhaba suggested by him, run by a single woman. Upon reaching close to the checkpoint, to enter Sarchu, I found myself maneuvering through a rugged, chaotic terrain, and crossing a bridge.
Remote Village Cooperative Arrangement:
After reaching the other side of the checkpoint, I spotted the first hotel adjacent to it. Following my earlier suggestion, I entered to find a single woman managing the café.Without a second thought, I inquired about accommodation and was led to a room.
The space was snug, fitted with two sizable beds, enclosed by a stone-and-mortar construction and secured by a simple latch on a tinted door.This room was linked to a combined grocery store and eatery, much like the setup I’d seen in Zing Zing Bar.
The usual display of cool drinks for tourists caught my eye, along with a collection of woolen clothes, socks, and jackets hanging close to the walls. Not bringing my jacket on this journey now felt like a regret, especially with the biting cold making camping a daunting prospect.
Seating on a wooden table inside the eatery I started to shiver, as I felt the chill creeping in. With a warm smile, the woman offered me a steaming cup of chai, a comforting gesture in the cold.
It’s fascinating how the body generates warmth during the challenging uphill cycle, creating a false sense of comfort, only to be starkly reminded of the bitter cold when coming to a halt.
Our conversation unfolded, and I learned that she juggled running this place while caring for four kids attending school in Leh. What intrigued me was the collective approach: all the hotels in Sarchu pooled their earnings, distributing them evenly, a unique and cooperative arrangement in this remote setting.
Drifting to Sleep:
My inadequate packing left me shivering and weakened due to the lack of food. Right away, I ordered dal chawal for sustenance.
Back in bed, I noticed my Keralite friend is also staying in the same room, confirming this was the place he had recommended. Despite our brief chat, exhaustion took over, leaving me too drained to continue. I drifted into sleep, faintly catching snippets of my friend discussing his sponsorship for the Guinness record.